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sauces [2016/10/10 21:49] Leslie Cambias [Ragù Bolognese] |
sauces [2020/08/02 19:57] (current) Jim [Red Pesto by Jim Cambias] |
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| - | Roux is a very simple thing and is the basis for gravies or thickening soups, etc. It ranges in color from white, as in Bechamel sauce, to dark brown for duck braising sauce. | ||
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| ====Basic Brown Sauce==== | ====Basic Brown Sauce==== | ||
| - | This great French basic sauce is simply a brown roux thinned out with a bouillion or brown stock. It also can be elaborated, as in Sauce Espagnole, which is brown sauce with mirepoix, tomato puree and bouquet garni, cooked and put through a fine sieve, or pureed in a processor and fine-sieved. It will be found in the kitchen of every classic French restaurant. There are endless variations on these sauces. | + | This great French basic sauce is simply a brown roux thinned out with a bouillion or brown stock. It also can be elaborated, as in Sauce Espagnole, which is brown sauce with mirepoix, tomato puree and bouquet garni, cooked and put through a fine sieve, or pureed in a processor and fine-sieved. It will be found in the kitchen of every classic French restaurant, where meat glaze is usually added for rich flavor. There are endless variations on these sauces. |
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| *2 cups chopped onion | *2 cups chopped onion | ||
| *1/2 cup chopped scallions | *1/2 cup chopped scallions | ||
| - | *3 cloves garlic, minced | + | *3 cloves garlic, minced |
| *1 1/2 cups chopped green pepper | *1 1/2 cups chopped green pepper | ||
| - | *1 cup celery, chopped - with leaves | + | |
| - | *1 tsp. thyme, 2 or 3 bayleaves | + | *1 cup celery, chopped - with leaves |
| - | *3 tsp. salt, 1/2 tsp pepper, 1 tsp. Tabasco | + | *1 teaspoon ground thyme, 2 or 3 bayleaves |
| + | *3 teaspoon salt, 1/2 tsp pepper, 1 tsp. Tabasco (or to taste) | ||
| *1 16 oz. can crushed tomatoes and liquid | *1 16 oz. can crushed tomatoes and liquid | ||
| *1 8 oz. can tomato sauce | *1 8 oz. can tomato sauce | ||
| - | *1 tbsp. lemon juice | + | |
| *1/2 cup parsley, chopped | *1/2 cup parsley, chopped | ||
| *1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce | *1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce | ||
| - | Cook the flour in the bacon fat to make a light brown roux. Add the onion and celery. peppers, scallions, bay and thyme. Cook on a low fire until they soften, then add the peppers, scallions, bay leaf and thyme and cook until everything is softened. Add the garlic, tomatoes and sauce, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for about 1 hour on a very low fire, then add the parsley, Tabasco, Worcestershire and lemon. Let it rest off the fire for at least 2 hours before rewarming and serving. | + | Cook the flour in the bacon fat to make a light brown roux. Add the onion and celery. peppers, scallions, bay and thyme. Cook on a low fire. Add the garlic, tomatoes and sauce, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for about 1/2 hour on a very low fire, then add the parsley, Tabasco and Worcestershire. Let it rest off the fire for at least 2 hours before rewarming and serving. |
| - | Since it freezes well, double the recipe and store some for future use. Use fresh tomatoes in season. | + | Since it freezes well, double the recipe and store some for future use. Use fresh tomatoes in season. Add lemon if using with seafood. |
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| - | It is, strictly speaking, not really a sauce but more of an ingredient. It is a kind of concentrated mushroom flavor, and is added to sauces or used for garnish or stuffing. (see the recipe for [[Seafood#Filet of Fish, Rolled and Baked]] for an example). It can be made with mushrooms that are just about to spoil, and it can be done with any variety. | + | It is, strictly speaking, not really a sauce but more of an ingredient. It is a kind of concentrated mushroom flavor, and is added to sauces or used for garnish or stuffing. (see the recipe for [[Seafood#Filet of Fish, Rolled and Baked]] for an example). It can be made with mushrooms that are just about to spoil, and with any variety. The processor can be used for mincing- almost a puree. |
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| - | One may add dried mushrooms to Duxelles for a real fungus kick: wash well and soak for at least ½ hr., in warm water. Lift out the mushrooms (always grit in the water) rinse and mince them, or puree in the blender. Set them simmering in the butter and wine while you prepare the other ingredients, since they take a long cooking to soften. | + | One may add dried mushrooms to Duxelles for a really rich mushroom flavor: wash well and soak for at least ½ hr., in warm water. Lift out the mushrooms (always grit in the water) rinse and mince them, or puree in the blender. Set them simmering in the butter and wine while you prepare the other ingredients, since they take a long cooking to soften. |
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| - | Hollandaise and Bearnaise do not freeze. They will keep for a couple of days in the fridge, but must be reheated very gently in a double boiler, over hot , not boiling water, and whisked often. | ||
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| ====Pesto, CC’s Favorite Recipe==== | ====Pesto, CC’s Favorite Recipe==== | ||
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| - | //This is the simple and elegant king of all the meat sauces for pasta. It is really sybaritic with paper-thin, homemade //pappardelle//: noodles cut to about about 1" wide. Garnish with Parmesan cheese shaved with a vegetable peeler. It is also the daddy of slow cooking, because it takes at least 3 hours to properly cook; but I think that you will agree that it is worth it. | + | //This is the simple and elegant king of all the meat sauces for pasta. It is really sybaritic with paper-thin, homemade //pappardelle// (noodles about 1" wide). Garnish with Parmesan cheese shaved with a vegetable peeler. It is also the daddy of slow cooking, because it takes at least 3 hours to properly cook; but I think that you will agree that it is worth it. |
| - | It is //umami central//, and nothing like the restaurant "Spaghetti Bolognese" with its thick tomato gravy. In Bologna it is never offerred with spaghetti - always with fetttucini or other flat pastas. The stuff in jars at the supermarket is beneath contempt.// | + | It is //umami central//, and nothing like the restaurant "Spaghetti Bolognese" with its thick tomato gravy. In Bologna it is never offered with spaghetti - always with fettucini or other flat pastas. The stuff in jars at the supermarket is beneath contempt.// |
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| - | Continue cooking, uncovered, for 3 hours - stirring now and then and adding a little water if it seems in danger of scorching. At the end of cooking it should be almost dry, just solids and oils. There should be about 2 generous cups, enough for 1 1/2 lbs. pasta, 6 lavish servings. | + | Continue cooking, uncovered, for 3 hours - stirring now and then and adding a little water if it seems in danger of scorching. Toward the end of cooking, you might want to add about 1 and 1/2 tablespoons of tomato paste - make a space and cook the pasta to caramelize it. At the end of cooking it should be almost dry, just solids and oils. There should be about 2 generous cups, enough for 1 1/2 lbs. pasta, 6 lavish servings. |
| - | It is a rich sauce and only a couple tablespoons of it per serving are needed. If needed, thin it out with a very little hot pasta water to serve. | + | It is a rich sauce and only a couple of tablespoons of it per serving are needed. If needed, thin it out with a very little hot pasta water. |
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| See under [[Seafood#Remoulade Sauce]] in Seafood. | See under [[Seafood#Remoulade Sauce]] in Seafood. | ||
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| + | ====Red Pesto by Jim Cambias==== | ||
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| + | This recipe is from //Bon Appetit// magazine, but of course I had to tinker with it a little bit. It is absolutely delicious, loaded with //umami// from the anchovies and tomatoes. In my house I can't prepare it in advance or save leftovers because people will just eat the sauce with a spoon when my back is turned. So I guess you have to make it right before dinner. | ||
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| + | For a supper in honor of Italian Tricolor Day (January 7), serve three kinds of pasta, one with red pesto, one with green pesto, and one with butter and cheese. | ||
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| + | //Ingredients// | ||
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| + | *Anchovies, 1 small can (Original recipe calls for just 6 anchovies, but why not use them all?) | ||
| + | *2 Fresno red chili peppers, split and seeded | ||
| + | *Garlic, 4 cloves, smashed | ||
| + | *Lemon Juice, 3 tablespoons (or the juice of half a lemon) | ||
| + | *Olive Oil, 3/4 cup (//Bon Appetit// specifies extra-virgin olive oil, but with all the garlic and anchovies I think any flavor subtleties will be lost, so you may as well use the cheap stuff.) | ||
| + | *Parmesan Cheese, grated, 3 ounces or 1/2 cup | ||
| + | *Pecans, 1/2 cup (Original recipe calls for walnuts.) | ||
| + | *Salt, 1/2 teaspoon or to taste | ||
| + | *Sun-Dried Tomatoes, 1/4 cup (//Bon Appetit// uses 3 tablespoons of double-concentrated tomato paste.) | ||
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| + | //Directions// | ||
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| + | Pour the olive oil into a saucepan, then sauté the anchovies, garlic, and nuts until the garlic begins to turn golden. Chop the tomatoes and add, cook a little longer but do not let the garlic get scorched. | ||
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| + | Put all the contents of the pan, including the oil, into a blender or food processor. Add the remaining ingredients (chiles, lemon, cheese, and salt) and puree until it forms a thick paste. | ||
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| + | Serve with spaghetti or fettucini, mixing the sauce thoroughly with the pasta. Also works well on pizza. | ||
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