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main_courses [2017/01/21 02:29] Leslie Cambias [Moussaka] |
main_courses [2017/05/27 22:08] (current) Leslie Cambias [Grillades] |
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| *Two or three onions, depending on size, chopped | *Two or three onions, depending on size, chopped | ||
| *Four garlic cloves, minced | *Four garlic cloves, minced | ||
| - | * Two carrots and two stalks of celery, both chopped. | + | * Two carrots and two stalks of celery, both minced |
| * Vegetable oil to cook the vegetables | * Vegetable oil to cook the vegetables | ||
| * Salt and pepper | * Salt and pepper | ||
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| - | Sear the meat in a Dutch oven or large saute pan filmed with oil. When browned on all sides, remove the meat, then cook the vegetables until softened. In a separate pan make a roux, using 1 1/2 tablespoons of flour and a tablespoon of butter. Cook to a light brown. Add a little stock to make a paste, then slowly dissolve the roux paste with one and one half cups of stock and one cup of white wine, whisking all the while. Add ½ teaspoon of dried tarragon, ½ teaspoon of powdered thyme, ½ teaspoon of powdered bay leaf, 1 tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper to taste. When completed, add chopped parsley. | + | Sear the meat in a Dutch oven or large saute pan filmed with oil. When browned on all sides, remove the meat, then cook the vegetables until softened. In a separate pan make a roux, using 1 1/2 tablespoons of flour and a tablespoon of butter. Cook to a light brown. Add a little stock to make a paste, then slowly dissolve the roux paste with one and one half cups of stock and one cup of white wine, whisking all the while. Add ½ teaspoon of dried tarragon, ½ teaspoon of powdered thyme, ½ teaspoon of powdered bay leaf, 1 tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper to taste. |
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| Optionally, it can be enriched with pre-cooked small onions, mushrooms, celery slices, carrot slices, potato, etc., in order to make it into a traditional stew. | Optionally, it can be enriched with pre-cooked small onions, mushrooms, celery slices, carrot slices, potato, etc., in order to make it into a traditional stew. | ||
| - | Serve with rice, non sweet waffles or wide noodles. Garnish with chopped parsley. Cranberry jelly and chutney go well with this concoction. Dumplings, poached in stock and finished in the sauce, are an excellent accompaniment. | + | Serve with rice, non -sweet waffles or wide noodles. Garnish with chopped parsley. Cranberry jelly and chutney go well with this concoction. Dumplings, poached in stock and finished in the sauce, are an excellent accompaniment. |
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| Pick over 1 quart of oysters to remove any shell bits. Strain the oyster water through cheesecloth or a fine sieve to remove any sand or shell bits. Add some white wine or white vermouth to the oyster water and poach the oysters in it, for just a minute or so, until the edges get curly. Cover and refrigerate. Save the poaching liquid. This is done the day before the turkey cooking. | Pick over 1 quart of oysters to remove any shell bits. Strain the oyster water through cheesecloth or a fine sieve to remove any sand or shell bits. Add some white wine or white vermouth to the oyster water and poach the oysters in it, for just a minute or so, until the edges get curly. Cover and refrigerate. Save the poaching liquid. This is done the day before the turkey cooking. | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | + | Other ingredients needed are: 1/2 package each of Pepperidge Farm Cornbread Dressing Mix and Seasoned Dressing Mix, chicken or turkey stock to wet the dressing, 2 beaten eggs, parsley, green onions, chopped mushrooms, pureed garlic, melted butter, 1 tablespoon Worchestershire sauce, thyme, salt and pepper to taste. | |
| - | Other ingredients needed are: 1/2 package each of Pepperidge Farm Cornbread Dressing Mix and Seasoned Dressing Mix, chicken or turkey stock to wet the dressing, eggs, parsley, green onions, chopped mushrooms, pureed garlic, melted butter, minced cooked giblets | + | |
| It takes one package of stuffing mix to fill a turkey, but CC always wanted leftover dressing, so she would use both packages and double the other ingredients, and half was baked in a casserole. | It takes one package of stuffing mix to fill a turkey, but CC always wanted leftover dressing, so she would use both packages and double the other ingredients, and half was baked in a casserole. | ||
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| - | Add 2 beaten eggs and all the other ingredients and toss. The dressing should be moist, but not runny. It will draw some fats and moisture from the turkey. To be certain that the bread has absorbed enough moisture, cut up a few pieces to test. Add black pepper and taste for seasoning. Cook the mixture briefly, stirring constantly, until it is well melded and heated. | + | The dressing should be moist, but not runny. It will draw some fats and moisture from the turkey. Be certain that the bread has absorbed enough moisture. Cook the mixture briefly, stirring constantly, until it is well melded and heated. |
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| - | You are pretty much on your own now, since everyone has his own roasting method. The pork listed above is for barding the breast. Thickly folded cheesecloth soaked in melted butter is also a good barding method. Cook at 350°, 20 minutes per pound for frozen and 10 to 15 minutes per pound for fresh turkey - depending on the size. Be certain that the turkey breast registers 160° and the thickest part of the thigh 175° to be considered done. Check the dressing also, it should be at least 150°. If the breast is cooked before the dark meat, cut and pull open the skin and - with a sharp knife - scoop out the breast halves and keep them on a platter, covered, until the rest is up to temperature. Slice across the grain and replace the breast halves and cover them with the cut skin. | + | You are pretty much on your own now, since everyone has his own roasting method. The pork listed above is for barding the breast. Thickly folded cheesecloth soaked in melted butter is also a good barding method. Cook at 350°, 20 minutes per pound for frozen and 10 to 15 minutes per pound for fresh turkey - depending on the size. Be certain that the turkey breast registers 160° and the thickest part of the thigh 175° to be considered done. Check the dressing also, it should be at least 150°. If the breast is cooked before the dark meat, cut and pull open the skin and - with a sharp knife - scoop out the breast halves and keep them on a platter, covered, until the dark meat is up to temperature. Slice across the grain, reform the breast halves on the turkey and cover them with the cut skin. |
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| ====Turkey Gumbo==== | ====Turkey Gumbo==== | ||
| - | Simmer the carcass with onion, celery, etc. after the meat is picked off. Strain and use the resulting stock for turkey gumbo, a soup that includes leftover gravy, chopped turkey meat, a little stuffing (acts as thickener), slices of andouille sausage (or diced ham), and oysters (added 3 minutes before serving). Well seasoned with chopped and cooked onion and celery, thyme, bayleaf, Worcestershire, parsley, garlic, salt and pepper, it is both rich and soupy. | + | Simmer the leftover bones, skin, etc. with onion, celery, etc. after the meat is picked off. Strain and use the resulting stock for turkey gumbo, a soup that includes leftover gravy, chopped turkey meat, a little stuffing (acts as thickener), slices of andouille sausage (or diced ham), and oysters (added 3 minutes before serving). Well seasoned with chopped and cooked onion and celery, thyme, bayleaf, Worcestershire, parsley, garlic, salt and pepper, it is both rich and soupy. |
| - | Put some rice in the soup bowls and ladle the soup on it. Sprinkle with minced parsley and scallions. Use a dark roux to thicken it if necessary. | + | Put some rice in the soup bowls and ladle the soup on it. Sprinkle with minced parsley and scallions. Use a dark roux to thicken it if necessary. |
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| - | We use a small oval Crueset casserole that fits the roast snugly, but any thick bottomed pot with a cover will do. Put in the oil and butter and turn the burner to medium-high. When hot, add the meat, fat side down, and brown it on all sides. Salt and pepper and slowly add 1 cup of milk. When the milk simmers turn the heat to a very low setting and set the cover on slightly ajar. Cook, turning the meat occasionally, at slow simmer for 1 hour or until the milk has thickened. Slowly add another cup of milk and simmer for about 10 minutes, then tightly cover. Continue to turn the meat. | + | We use a small oval Crueset casserole that fits the roast snugly, but any thick bottomed pot with a cover will do. Put in the oil and butter and turn the burner to medium-high. When hot, add the meat, fat side down, and brown it on all sides. Salt and pepper and slowly add 1 cup of milk. When the milk simmers turn the heat to a very low setting and set the cover on slightly ajar. Cook, turning the meat occasionally, at slow simmer for 1 hour or until the milk has thickened. Slowly add another cup of milk and simmer for about 10 minutes, then tightly cover. |
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| - | //This is something we all grew up with, except that it was then made then with veal rather than beef. CC talked about her grandfather Street’s family having this on the table every day, except Friday. That was fast day, so they had [[Seafood#Redfish Courtbouillon]]. This was in addition to whatever they were having for dinner that day. They were creatures of habit. The word grillades refers to the cut of meat, not the cooking method.// | + | //This is something we all grew up with, except that it was then made then with veal rather than beef. CC talked about her grandfather Street’s family having this on the table every day, except Friday. That was fast day, so they had [[Seafood#Redfish Courtbouillon]]. This was in addition to whatever they were having for dinner that day. They were creatures of habit.// |
| - | The usual meat for this is beef round, thinly cut and trimmed of fat and odd bits. We use a lean beef rump or shoulder roast and slice it across the grain into serving sized pieces about 1/2 inch thick. Cut the slices into serving sized pieces, pound them down to about 1/4" thickness and lightly flour. Sear the meat in vegetable oil and put it aside. | + | The usual meat for this is beef round, thinly cut and trimmed of fat and odd bits. We use a lean beef rump or shoulder roast and slice it across the grain about 1/2 inch thick. Cut the slices into serving sized pieces, pound them down to about 1/4" thickness and lightly flour. Sear the meat in vegetable oil and put it aside. |
| - | Cook chopped onion, sweet pepper, garlic, thyme, bayleaf, parsley, salt and pepper. Make a brown roux with 2 tablespoons of flour, add to the veggies. Put in peeled, seeded and chopped tomatoes or canned equivalent. Add one tablespoon of tomato paste and about 2 cups of beef stock. Return the meat to the pan, cover with sauce and cook on a very low fire until the meat is very tender, about 1 hour. Never let the meat boil, cook it at just a very slow simmer – no big bubbles. It can be more easily cooked in a slow oven, 300° for about 1 ½ hour. The sauce should be quite thick. Serve over grits or rice. | + | Cook chopped onion, sweet pepper, garlic, thyme, bayleaf, parsley, salt and pepper. Make a brown roux with 2 tablespoons of flour, add to the veggies. Put in peeled, seeded and chopped tomatoes or canned equivalent. Add one tablespoon of tomato paste and about 2 cups of beef stock. Return the meat to the pan, cover with sauce and cook on a very low fire until the meat is very tender, about 1 hour. Never let the meat boil, cook it at just a very slow simmer – no big bubbles. It can be cooked in a slow oven, 275° for about 1 ½ hour. Serve over grits or rice. |
| Grillades freeze well. | Grillades freeze well. | ||
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| ====Daube==== | ====Daube==== | ||
| - | The above (grillades) recipe, using a whole beef chuck or shoulder roast, is a //daube// in the Creole cuisine. Locally, the meat was cut like a thick steak and used for daube or pot roast. One can probably find something similar in Spain. Daube in France is a kind of pot roast, cooked in a //daubiere//, an iron pot with a lid shaped to hold live coals. This allowed the meat to cook from all sides. One can buy such a pot from cast iron pot makers here, they are used in camp cooking. | + | The above (grillades) recipe, using a whole beef chuck or shoulder roast, is a //daube// in the Creole cuisine. Locally, the meat was cut like a thick steak and used for daube or pot roast. One can probably find something similar in Spain. Daube in France is a kind of pot roast, cooked in a //daubiere//, an iron pot with a lid shaped to hold live coals. This allowed the meat to cook from all sides. One can buy such a pot from cast iron pot makers, they are used in camp cooking. |
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| - | This is my show-off dish, and is the version that developed over time. Once the three-part concept is understood, the recipe is not so daunting as it seems at first look. | + | This is my show-off dish, and is the version that developed over time. After cooking it once, the recipe is not so daunting as it seems at first look. The ragout can be made a few days ahead. |
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| - | Bake, set into a pan of warm water, in a 350° oven for 1 hour. Let it rest before serving. | + | Bake, set into a pan of hot water, in a 350° oven for 1 hour. Let it rest before serving. |
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| - | Try pulverizing a portion of the meat in the processor. This acts as another binder and helps in keeping the ground meat from cooking up too ‘pebbly’. The meat loaf mix that is sold in supermarkets is usually beef, pork and purported veal. This is a good basic mix. You can make your own mixes for various dishes, for instance beef and lamb (think gyro) to stretch the expensive lamb. Sausage meats, such as Italian sweet sausage, can liven up a loaf. One can also embed a cooked and peeled sausage in the loaf so that it forms a nice medallion in the middle of each slice, or use strips of long vegetables like cooked carrot or peeled sweet pepper strips. Be careful to not put the inserts all in one layer – the loaf will break in two when you cut it. | + | Try pulverizing a portion of the meat in the processor. This acts as another binder and helps in keeping the ground meat from cooking up too ‘pebbly’. The meat loaf mix that is sold in supermarkets is usually beef, pork and purported veal. This is a good basic mix. You can make your own mixes for various dishes, for instance beef and lamb (think gyro) to stretch the expensive lamb. Sausage meats, such as Italian sweet sausage, can liven up a loaf. One can also embed a cooked and peeled sausage in the loaf so that it forms a nice medallion in the middle of each slice, or use strips of long vegetables like cooked carrot or peeled sweet pepper strips. Be careful to not put the inserts all in one layer – the loaf will break in two when you cut it. |
| * 2 lbs. of ground beef or meatloaf mix (should be 2 beef : 1 pork : 1 veal.) | * 2 lbs. of ground beef or meatloaf mix (should be 2 beef : 1 pork : 1 veal.) | ||
| - | * 1 large whole onion and 1 stalk of celery- both chopped and cooked, with 2 or 3 minced garlic cloves added late in the cooking. | + | * 1 large whole onion and 1 stalk of celery- both chopped and cooked, with 2 or 3 minced garlic cloves added late in |
| - | * 2 slices of bread, torn or chopped to small pieces, soaked in 1/4 cup whole milk and lightly squeezed. Mix the milk with meat. | + | the cooking. |
| + | * 3 slices of bread, torn or chopped to small pieces, soaked in 1/4 cup whole milk and lightly squeezed. Mix the | ||
| + | excess milk with the meat. | ||
| * Chopped parsley and other herbs, thyme, bayleaf, rosemary, etc. | * Chopped parsley and other herbs, thyme, bayleaf, rosemary, etc. | ||
| * 2 eggs, beaten with salt and pepper. | * 2 eggs, beaten with salt and pepper. | ||
| * A small can of deviled ham added will help to smooth the texture and enrich the flavor. | * A small can of deviled ham added will help to smooth the texture and enrich the flavor. | ||
| + | * 1 tablespoon whole milk. | ||
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| - | These are made with the same meat mixture and cooked the same as meat loaf, with some cooked rice added to the mix to lighten it. Stand them in a pan with a thinned tomato sauce no more than 1/2" deep. The peppers are lightly parboiled to soften them after they are cleaned, then they are stuffed and baked at 350° for 45 minutes to an hour. Check the sauce and baste often. | + | These are made with the same meat mixture and cooked the same as meat loaf, with some cooked rice added to the mix to lighten it. The peppers are lightly parboiled to soften them after they are cleaned, then they are stuffed, stood in a baking pan, covered with enough light tomato sauce to fill the pan about 1/4", then baked at 350° for 45 minutes to an hour. Check the sauce and baste often. |
| - | The peppers can also be stuffed with a cooked and chopped shrimp and rice mixture, along with cooked onion and celery, bayleaf, thyme and parsley and bound with breadcrumbs or a thick Bechamel sauce. Put them into a pan with 2" sides, and crowd them so that they stand up. Pour about 1/2" of thin tomato sauce into the pan. | + | The peppers can also be stuffed with a cooked and chopped shrimp and rice mixture, along with cooked onion and celery, bay leaf, thyme and parsley and bound with breadcrumbs or a thick Bechamel sauce. Put them into a pan with 2" sides, and crowd them so that they stand up. Pour about 1/2" of thin tomato sauce into the pan. |
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| - | //In the 1970’s we stayed in John Hohnsbein’s apartment on the Corso, near the Piazza Venizia, while he was visiting his family in Florida. There was a wonderful small restaurant called the Abruzzi, just around the corner. I liked their whole baby veal shank, braised in a brown sauce and called //stinco de vitello//. It is no longer there. When John moved to Venice we found the Albergo Cesàri, a hotel near the Piazza Collona, as our hotel. It is still there, and considerably tarted up now. It is a great location. Do not go to Rome without first reading Georgina Masson’s guide to Rome, it is the best of all travel books. Read it even if you do not travel.// | + | //In the 1970’s we stayed in John Hohnsbein’s apartment on the Corso, near the Piazza Venezia, while he was visiting his family in Florida. There was a wonderful small restaurant called the Abruzzi, just around the corner. I liked their whole baby veal shank, braised in a brown sauce and called //stinco de vitello//. It is no longer there. When John moved to Venice we found the Albergo Cesàri, near the Piazza Collona, as our hotel. It is still there, and considerably tarted up now. It is a great location. Do not go to Rome without first reading Georgina Masson’s guide to Rome, it is the best of all travel books. Read it even if you do not travel.// |
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| - | Drain and rinse the pigsfeet, let them soak in water for at least 30 minutes. Cook the onion, celery and carrot in a little oil until they are soft. Add the other ingredients, including the pigsfeet. Add a little white wine (optional) and enough water to almost cover. Cook on a very slow simmer for about an hour or so - depending on the softness of the meat and skin. Taste a piece, it should be reduced to a gelatinous state and the skin should be very soft. Let it rest for a couple of hours and reheat to serve with white or yellow grits. It can be cooked in a 250° oven for about 1 hour, instead. | + | Drain and rinse the pigsfeet, let them soak in water for at least 30 minutes. Cook the onion, celery and carrot in a little oil until they are soft. Add the other ingredients, including the pigsfeet. Add a little white wine (optional) and enough water to almost cover. Cook on a very slow simmer (or in a 250° oven for 2 hrs.) for about an hour or so - depending on the softness of the meat and skin. Taste a piece, it should be reduced to an almost gelatinous state and the skin should be very soft. Let it rest for a couple of hours and reheat to serve with white or yellow grits. |