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- main_courses [2016/08/29 22:36] Leslie Cambias [Daube]
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+ main_courses [2017/05/27 22:08] (current) Leslie Cambias [Grillades]
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      *1 ½  C orange sections  ​
      *1 ½ C chopped pecans  ​
      *1/4 cup ¼ C of plumped raisins ​  
      *¼ C lemon juice  ​
      *¼ C sugar  ​
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 To serve: ​ Prepare a salad dressing, such as poppy seed or boiled dressing, ​ or a mayonnaise with minced herbs. ​ Place the turkey on a serving platter and surround it with fresh fruit, such as plum halves, ​ peeled peaches, ​ grapes in small bunches, ​ cherries, ​ avocado, flowers and leaves etc., to make a Dellarobbia wreath. ​ Garnish the platter with watercress, or other fresh greens. ​ Serve dressing ​stuffing ​on the side.   The meat can be sliced and re-assembled to make the serving easy. Slice across the grain of the meat to make individual servings, if using the boned breast. This is a great buffet dish, particularly in hot weather..
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      *Two or three onions, depending on size, chopped ​
      *Four garlic cloves, minced  ​
      * Two carrots and two stalks of celery, both chopped. ​minced ​ 
      * Vegetable oil to cook the vegetables ​
      * Salt and pepper ​
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 Brown Sear the meat in a Dutch oven or large saute pan filmed with oil. When browned on all sides, remove the meat, then cook the vegetables until softened.  ​Push the vegetables to one side and brown 1½ In a separate pan make a roux, using 1 1/2 tablespoons of flour in oil or and a tablespoon of butterto make a roux.  ( it is best Cook to make the roux in a separate panlight brown. )   Add a little stock to make a paste, ​ then slowly dissolve the roux paste with one and one half cups of stock and one cup of white wine, whisking all the while. ​ Add ½ teaspoon of dried tarragon, ​ ½ teaspoon of powdered thyme, ½ teaspoon of powdered bay leaf, 1 tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper to tasteand chopped parsley.  
 
 
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 When it is all cooked, take out the meat out and decant the gravy into a processor or blender. ​ Let it rest so that the fat rises and can be removed. ​ Blend the gravy to make it smooth.  ​
 
 This  
 Optionally, it can be enriched with pre-cooked small onions, mushrooms, celery slices, carrot slices, potato, etc., in order to make it into a traditional stew.  ​Dumplings can be cooked in chicken or turkey stock and finished in the stew. Or serve  
  
 Serve with rice, non -sweet waffles or wide noodles. Garnish with chopped parsley. ​ Cranberry jelly or and chutney go well with this concoction. ​ Dumplings, poached in stock and finished in the sauce, are an excellent accompaniment. ​
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 ====Turkey Hash====
 Cook an onion and a stalk of celery, minced, in very little butter and oil.
 
  
 Bone and chop the leftover Thanksgiving turkey meat, add to the onions with just enough stuffing mix and gravy to  make a wet hash consistency. ​ Taste for seasoning and add herbs or salt as needed. Bake for 20 minutes ​at 350° to meld the flavors. ​ This is served on unsweetened waffles. ​  
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 A  12 to 15 lb. Turkeyturkey.  24 to 48 hrs. before cooking, dry-brine it.  This does not work if it is pre-salted, like Butterball or Kosher or any turkey that has "​injected"​ on the label. ​ Starting at the cavity, ​ loosen the skin by carefully running your hand between the skin and muscle of the breast and leg parts. ​ Ignore the back and any other unreachable place. ​ Sprinkle the cavity with 1 teaspoon of salt with a sprinkle of black pepper in it.  Rub 1 ½  teaspoons of salt under the skin of each breast half and 1 ½ teaspoons in each leg section.  ​
 
 
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 Pick over 1 quart of oysters to remove any shell bits.  Strain the oyster water through cheesecloth or a fine sieve to remove any sand or shell bits.  Add some white wine or white vermouth to the oyster water and poach the oysters in it, for just a minute or so,  until the edges get curly. ​ Cover and refrigerate. ​ Save the poaching liquid. ​ This is for doing done the day before the turkey ​cooking. 
  
  
  
 Other ingredients needed are:    1/2 package each of Pepperidge Farm Cornbread Dressing Mix and Seasoned Dressing Mix,  chicken or turkey stock to wet the dressing, ​ eggs,  parsley, ​ green onions, ​ chopped mushrooms, pureed garlic, melted butter, minced cooked giblets
 
  
 Other ingredients needed are:    1/2 package each of Pepperidge Farm Cornbread Dressing Mix and Seasoned Dressing Mix,  chicken or turkey stock to wet the dressing, 2 beaten eggs,  parsley, ​ green onions, ​ chopped mushrooms, pureed garlic, melted butter, 1 tablespoon ​ Worchestershire sauce, thyme, salt and pepper to taste.
 
 It takes one package of stuffing mix to fill a turkey, ​ but CC always wanted leftover dressing, ​ so she would use both packages and double the other ingredients,​ and half was baked in a casserole. ​  
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 Add 2 beaten eggs and all the other ingredients and toss.  ​The dressing should be moist, ​ but not runny. ​ It will draw some fats and moisture from the turkey.  ​To be Be certain that the bread has absorbed enough moisturecut up a few pieces to test.  Add black pepper and taste for seasoning.  ​  ​Cook the mixture briefly, ​ stirring constantly, ​ until it is well melded and heated.
 
 
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 You are pretty much on your own now,  since everyone has his own roasting method. ​ The pork listed above is for barding the breast. ​ Thickly folded cheesecloth soaked in melted butter is also a good barding method. ​ Cook at 350°, 20 minutes per pound for frozen and 10 to 15 minutes per pound for fresh turkey - depending on the size. Be certain that the turkey breast registers 160° and the thickest part of the thigh 175° to be considered done.  Check the dressing also,  it should be at least 150°. If the breast is cooked before the dark meat,  cut and pull open the skin and - with a sharp knife - scoop out the breast halves and keep them on a platter, covered, ​ until the rest dark meat is up to temperature. ​  Slice across the grainand replace ​, reform ​the breast halves ​on the turkey ​and cover them with the cut skin.
 
 
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 ====Turkey Gumbo====
 
 Simmer the carcass ​leftover bones, skin, etc. with onion, ​ celery, ​ etc. after the meat is picked off.  Strain and use the resulting stock for turkey gumbo, a soup that includes leftover gravy, chopped turkey meat, a little stuffing (acts as thickener), ​ slices of andouille sausage (or diced ham),  and oysters (added 3 minutes before serving). ​  Well seasoned with chopped and cooked onion and  celery, ​ thyme, ​ bayleaf, ​ Worcestershire,​ parsley, ​ garlic, salt and pepper, ​  it is both rich and soupy. ​
 
 
  Put some rice in the soup bowls and ladle the soup on it.  Sprinkle with minced parsley and scallions. ​ Use a dark roux to thicken it if necessary.
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 Brown pork chops in a generous amount of clarified butter, ​ remove and add garlic, ​ some white wine  and chopped fresh rosemary and fresh sage.  Cook for a couple of minutes to meld,  then return the chops to the pan.  Cover and simmer slowly for about ½ hour,  turning once.  Remove the chops, ​ strain the sauce through a fine sieve, ​add a little lemon juice and finish the sauce with butter, ​ added bit by bit.
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 //This comes from a small restaurant ​near my office,  ​opened by my a barber, ​ Jorge Rodriguez. ​ He had a cook who also  was a refugee from Castro’s Utopia. ​ He made an incredibly good //calamares en su encre// and other Spanish dishes. ​ Unfortunately, ​ the restaurant did not catch on because in those days that was skid row.  It is now the “Arts District” and has lots of chi-chi restaurants, ​ few of which have food as good as that man cooked. ​  The barber ​Jorge moved to Jefferson parish and opened a very ordinary ​ Mexican restaurant that prospered. ​    O tempora, ​ o mores. //                                                                                                                                                   
 
 
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 We use a small oval Crueset casserole that fits the roast snugly, ​ but any thick bottomed pot with a cover will do.  Put in the oil and butter and turn the burner to medium-high. ​ When hot, add the meat, fat side down, and brown it on all sides. ​ Salt and pepper and slowly add 1 cup of milk.  When the milk simmers turn the heat to a very low setting and set the cover on slightly ajar.  Cook,  turning the meat occasionally,​ at slow simmer for 1 hour or until the milk has thickened. ​ Slowly add another cup of milk and simmer for about 10 minutes, then tightly cover. ​ ​Continue to turn the meat.  ​  ​
 
 
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 //This is something we all grew up with,  except that it was then made then with veal rather than beef.  CC talked about her grandfather Street’s family having this on the table every day,  except Friday. ​ That was fast day,  so they had [[Seafood#​Redfish Courtbouillon]]. ​ This was in addition to whatever they were having for dinner that day.    They were creatures of habit.  The word grillades refers to the cut of meat,  not the cooking method.//  
 
 
 
 The usual meat for this is beef round, thinly cut and trimmed of fat and odd bits.   We use a lean beef rump or shoulder roast and slice it across the grain into serving sized pieces ​about 1/2 inch thick. Cut the slices into 3" ​serving sized pieces, pound them down to about 1/24" thickness and lightly flour. ​ Sear the meat in vegetable oil and put it aside.  ​
 
 
 Cook chopped onion, ​ sweet pepper, ​ garlic, ​ thyme, ​ bayleaf, ​ parsley, ​ salt and pepper. ​  Make a dark brown roux with 2 tablespoons of flour, ​ add to the veggies. ​  Put in peeled, ​ seeded and chopped tomatoes or canned equivalent. ​ Add one tablespoon of tomato paste and about 2 cups of beef stock. ​ Return the meat to the pan,  cover with sauce and cook on a very low fire until the meat is very tender, ​ about 1 hour.  Never let the meat boil,  cook it at just a very slow simmer – no big bubbles. ​ It can be more easily ​cooked in a slow oven,  ​300° 275° for about 1 ½  hour.  The sauce should be quite thick.  Serve over grits or rice.              ​
 
 Grillades freeze well.
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 ====Daube====
 
 The above (grillades) recipe, ​ using a whole beef chuck or shoulder roast, ​ is  a //daube// in the Creole cuisine. Locally, the meat was cut like a thick steak and used for daube or pot roast. One can probably find something similar in Spain. ​ Daube in France is a kind of pot roast, ​ cooked in a //​daubiere//, ​ an iron pot with a lid shaped to hold live coals. ​ This allowed the meat to cook from all sides. ​  One can buy such a pot from cast iron pot makershere,  they are used in camp cooking.
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 This is my show-off dish,  and is the version that developed over time.   Once the three-part ​ concept is understoodAfter cooking it once, the recipe is not so daunting as it seems at first look.  The ragout can be made a few days ahead. ​
 
 
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 2. Eggplant: ​ Peel, thickly slice a large eggplant, ​ or two or three small ones.   Salt it generously and  let it weep in a colander for 30 minutes or so – to remove much of the moisture and any bitterness. ​  Rinse and dry the slices. ​ Paint both sides of the slices with olive oil and saute or bake them.  They should be quite soft,  but not mush. 
 
 
 
 3.  The Topping: ​  Make Use about 1 ½  cups 3/4 cup of [[Sauces#​Mornay sauce]]with an extra egg yolk.   Also Optionally you may add some sour cream or yogurt and cream cheese. ​ Your imagination can work here.  ( Fold in a couple of an egg whiteswhite,  beaten to a stiff meringue. ​  It will make a soufflèd topping, ​ so have a deep dish. This is also optional.)
 
 
 
 Assembling: ​ In a 9” souffle bowl or a ceramic or glass square baker, ​  well buttered, ​ place a layer of cooked eggplant slices. ​ Cover them with a layer of the meat sauce, repeat until used up,  ending with eggplant. ​  ​Spread the Mornay ​topping on and sprinkle lightly with grated Parmesan or similar cheese and a few breadcrumbs.  ​
 
 
 
 Bake,  set into a pan of warm hot water, ​ in a 350° oven for 1 hour.   Let it rest before serving.
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 Try pulverizing a portion of the meat in the processor. ​ This acts as another binder and helps in keeping the ground meat from cooking up too ‘pebbly’. ​ The meat loaf mix that is sold in supermarkets is usually beef,  pork and purported veal.  This is a good basic mix.  You can make your own mixes for various dishes, ​ for instance beef and lamb (think gyro) to stretch the expensive lamb.   ​   Sausage meats, ​ such as Italian sweet sausage, ​ can liven up a loaf.  One can also embed a cooked and peeled sausage in the loaf so that it forms a nice medallion in the middle of each slice, ​ or use strips of long vegetables like cooked carrot or peeled sweet pepper strips. ​ Be careful to not put the inserts ​ all in one layer – the loaf will break in two when you cut it.             
 
   
   
         * 2 lbs. of ground beef or meatloaf mix (should be 2 beef : 1 pork : 1 veal.)Mix it with 1/4 cup of whole milk. 
      ​   * 1 large whole onion and 1 stalk of celery- both chopped and cooked, with 2 or 3 minced garlic cloves added late in  
       ​the cooking. ​  ​                     
     * 2 3 slices of bread, ​ torn or chopped to small pieces, ​ soaked in 1/4 cup whole milk and lightly squeezed. Mix the   
       excess milk with the meat.
     * Chopped parsley and other herbs, thyme, bayleaf, rosemary, ​ etc.  ​
     * 2 eggs,  beaten with salt and pepper.  ​
     * A small can of deviled ham added will help to smooth the texture and enrich the flavor.
     * 1 tablespoon whole milk.
 
 
 
 
 Mix everything together, ​ except the meat.  Fold the mixture into the meat,  handling it as little as possible. ​ The idea is to keep the meat mixture from compacting and toughening. ​ The loaf can be put into a loaf pan or formed into a rectangle (sort of) on a rimmed baking sheet lined with foil.   Put some thick brown sauce or tomato sauce on top the loaf in the pan,  or paint it onto on  to the free-standing loaf.   Bake at 350° for 30 minutes, ​ or until it reaches an internal temperature of 155°. ​  Pour off the fat and unmold, ​ or pick up with two spatulas from the baking sheet.
 
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 These are made with the same meat mixture and cooked the same as meat loaf,  with some cooked rice added to the mix to lighten it.  Stand them in a pan with a thinned tomato sauce no more than 1/2" deep.   The peppers are lightly parboiled to soften them after they are cleaned, ​ then they are stuffedand , stood in a baking pan, covered with enough light tomato sauce to fill the pan about 1/4", then baked at 350° for 45 minutes to an hour.  Check the sauce and baste often.
 
 
 The peppers can also be stuffed with a cooked and chopped shrimp and rice mixture, along with cooked onion and celery,  ​bayleafbay leaf,  thyme and parsley and  bound with breadcrumbs or a thick Bechamel sauce. Put them into a pan with 2" sides, and crowd them so that they stand up. Pour about 1/2" of thin tomato sauce into the pan.
 
 
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 //In the 1970’s we stayed in John Hohnsbein’s apartment on the Corso, ​ near the Piazza ​VeniziaVenezia, while he was visiting his family in Florida. ​  There was a wonderful small restaurant called the Abruzzi, ​ just around the corner. ​  I liked their whole baby veal shank, ​ braised in a brown sauce and called //stinco de vitello//. It is no longer there. ​ When John moved to Venice we found the Albergo Cesàri, ​a hotel near the Piazza Collona, as our hotel. ​ It is still there, ​ and considerably tarted up now.  It is a great location. ​  Do not go to Rome without first reading Georgina Masson’s ​ guide to Rome,  it is the best of all travel books. ​ Read it even if you do not travel.// ​
 
 
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 Brown the meat in the oil and butter, ​ remove and add the vegetables and herbs to soften, then add the tomato paste and cook for 10 a few  ​minutes. ​ Add the stock and wine,  salt & pepper. Return the meat to the pan and simmer very slowly, ​ making sure it never boils. ​ It may also be cooked in a 300° oven.  It takes about 2 hours to really tenderize, and when it is cooked, add the gremolada and let it all rest for 5 minutes or so.  ​
 
 
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 Drain and rinse the pigsfeet, let them soak in water for at least 30 minutes. ​ Cook the onion, celery and carrot in a little oil until they are soft.  Add the other ingredients, ​ including the pigsfeet. ​ Add a little white wine (optional) and enough water to almost cover. ​  Cook on a very slow simmer ​(or in a 250° oven for 2 hrs.) for about an hour or so - depending on the softness of the meat and skin.   Taste a piece, ​ it should be reduced to a an almost ​gelatinous state and the skin should be very soft.   Let it rest for a couple of hours and reheat to serve with white or yellow grits. ​  It can be cooked in a 250° oven for about 1 hour,  instead.