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chicken [2017/03/19 20:37]
Leslie Cambias [Chicken Stock]
chicken [2017/05/28 20:05] (current)
Leslie Cambias [Poulette á la Crapaudine]
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-Aspic is made by starting with a half gallon of clear (first boil) chicken stock. To the cold stock add about a pound of ground or minced raw chicken meat, 3 egg whites beaten to a froth, minced onion, celery, tomato, parsley stems, thyme and bay leaf; all chopped. This is brought to a low simmer, never boiling it. The egg will coagulate with the meat and other ingredients in it,  but keep on stirring until the raft forms. ​ This will prevent the egg from burning on the bottom of the pot.  ​+Aspic is made by starting with a half gallon of clear (first boil) chicken stock. To the cold stock add about a pound of ground or minced raw chicken meat, 3 egg whites beaten to a froth, minced onion, celery, tomato, parsley stems, thyme and bay leaf; all chopped ​fine. This is brought to a low simmer, never boiling it. The egg will coagulate with the meat and other ingredients in it,  but keep on stirring until the raft forms. ​ This will prevent the egg from burning on the bottom of the pot.  ​
  
  
-Keep it at a low simmer, making a few holes in the crust that forms on top (the raft) to allow the liquid to flow through and deposit any sediment on top of the raft. Simmer for at least an hour, uncovered, and it will serve to reduce the amount of stock but increase its strength.  ​It should be heated just enough to move the liquid, ​ but not bubble.+Keep it at a low simmer, making a few holes in the crust that forms on top (the raft) to allow the liquid to flow through and deposit any sediment on top of the raft. Simmer for at least an hour, uncovered, and it will serve to reduce the amount of stock but increase its strength.  ​
  
  
-Remove some of the raft, ladle out the stock and put it through a fine sieve or washed cheesecloth ​in a colander. It should be sparkling clean. ​ Use it to make aspic jelly with diced chicken and vegetables and herbs, or with shrimp,  fish or whatever comes your way.  Heat and add softened gelatine if the aspic is not jelled enough on its own. Chill until firm, unmold, and serve with //​mayonnaise fines herbes// and a salad. ​+Remove some of the raft, add an envelope of softened gelatine and simmer it until melted. Ladle out the stock and put it through a fine sieve or washed cheesecloth ​into a colander. It should be sparkling clean. ​Add salt. Use it to make aspic jelly with diced chicken and vegetables and herbs, or with shrimp. ​  ​Chill until firm, unmold, and serve with //​mayonnaise fines herbes// and a salad. ​ 
  
  
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-Until WWII veal was a cheap and plentiful meat because the dairy farms were in what is now suburbia. ​ When a cow was running dry, she would be introduced to a bull and the resulting calf would be nursed for some weeks. ​ The calf would be sold to an abatoire to butcher it and soon made into lovely ​ dishes, ​ and the cow back to being milked. ​ It is all done chemically ​now, or by artificial insemination. ​ The cows no longer have any fun and we are deprived of a wonderful meat.+Until WWII veal was a cheap and plentiful meat because the dairy farms were in what is now suburbia. ​ When a cow was running dry, she would be introduced to a bull and the resulting calf would be nursed for some weeks. ​ The calf would be sold to an abatoire to butcher it and soon made into lovely ​ dishes, ​ and the cow back to being milked. ​ It is all done now by artificial insemination. ​ The cows no longer have any fun and we are deprived of a wonderful meat.
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 ====Chicken Cacciatore==== ====Chicken Cacciatore====
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 Like Shrimp Creole, Grillades, Redfish Courtbouillion,​ etc. the sauce is basically tomato, onion, green pepper and garlic, thyme, bayleaf and parsley. That pretty well gives away the recipe. Like Shrimp Creole, Grillades, Redfish Courtbouillion,​ etc. the sauce is basically tomato, onion, green pepper and garlic, thyme, bayleaf and parsley. That pretty well gives away the recipe.
  
-Lightly flour, season and sear the chicken pieces in a little oil, remove. Cook the onion, a little celery and the green pepper. Add the garlic, then the tomato (peeled, seeded and chopped), some tomato sauce or puree, ​ and cook the tomato ​to reduce it and bring out the flavor. Add the herbs, ​ salt and pepper and the chicken. Simmer, covered, until the chicken is done.  (test at 20 minutes) ​ Serve with rice. For a thicker sauce, ​ add some flour to the onion mix when it is almost cooked. Add some chicken stock if not wet enough.  ​+Lightly flour, season and sear the chicken pieces in a little oil, remove. Cook the onion, a little celery and the green pepper. Add the garlic, then the tomato (peeled, seeded and chopped), some tomato sauce or puree, ​ and cook to reduce it and bring out the flavor. Add the herbs, ​ salt and pepper and the chicken. Simmer, covered, until the chicken is done.  (test at 20 minutes) ​ Serve with rice. For a thicker sauce, ​ add some flour to the onion mix when it is almost cooked. Add some chicken stock if not wet enough.  ​
  
  
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-A //poulet// or young chicken has a soft breastbone, ​ but an older //poule// or hen has a firmly bony one. Pinch it at the breast and move it from side to side to test it. The sauce from a mature hen is yellow, rich and savory.+A //poulet// or young chicken has a soft breastbone, ​ but an older //poule// or hen has a firmly bony one. Pinch it at the breast and move it from side to side to test it. The sauce made with a mature hen is yellow, rich and savory.
  
  
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-Into a boiler or large casserole place a half gallon of water and set it to boil on a high fire. Add the cleaned and rinsed ​chicken or hen. Turn the fire down to a very low simmer and cook until a froth forms on top  the water. Skim off the froth and add the following (which you have cleverly prepared beforehand): ​  +Into a boiler or large casserole place a half gallon of water and chicken stock, mixed. Set it to boil on a high fire. Add the cleaned and rinsed hen. Turn the fire down to a very low simmer and cook about 1 hour. Skim off the froth and add the following (which you have cleverly prepared beforehand): ​  
    
            
-     +     * 1carrot, sliced
      *1 onion and 3 celery ribs, chopped ​   ​      *1 onion and 3 celery ribs, chopped ​   ​
      *2 bay leaves      *2 bay leaves
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-Continue to simmer until done – about  1 hour. As long as the water is moving it is cooking - it is best at the "​smiling"​ stage, ​ when you can see movement, but there are almost no bubbles. ​It is best to cut the bird to separate the breast from the dark meat, then you are able to take the breast out sooner to see if it is done. It should be just beyond pink – sort of an ivory color. ​ (Internal temperatures should be 155° for breast and 170° for the thigh.) ​ Continue cooking ​until the dark meat is done. Obviously, this can be done a day or so beforehand.  ​+Continue to simmer until done – about  1/2 hour. As long as the water is moving it is cooking - it is best at the "​smiling"​ stage, ​ when you can see movement, but there are almost no bubbles. ​ ​Cut ​the bird to separate the breast from the dark meat, then you are able to take the breast out sooner to see if it is done. It should be just beyond pink – sort of an ivory color. ​ (Internal temperatures should be 155° for breast and 170° for the thigh.) ​ Continue cooking the dark meat until done. Obviously, this can be done a day or so beforehand.  ​
  
 Unless the chicken is to be served whole, bone it, reserve the meat and return the bones, skin, etc. to the pot and simmer it for another hour to enrich the stock. Add water to make about 2 quarts. Strain this stock and use it to poach the dumplings before making the stew.  Taste it and adjust seasoning. Unless the chicken is to be served whole, bone it, reserve the meat and return the bones, skin, etc. to the pot and simmer it for another hour to enrich the stock. Add water to make about 2 quarts. Strain this stock and use it to poach the dumplings before making the stew.  Taste it and adjust seasoning.
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     *Pepper to taste     *Pepper to taste
  
 +Put the dry ingredients into a bowl, stir in the herbs and add the milk and egg. Mix well. Let it rest for an hour or more in the fridge.
  
-Sift together the dry ingredients into a bowl, stir in the herbs and add the milk and egg. Mix well. Let it rest for an hour or more in the fridge. +Have ready a pot (2 qts.) of barely simmering chicken broth - to be used later in making the stew. Do not let it boil, or the dumplings will break up. Form the dumplings with two oiled tablespoons and drop them carefully into the simmering stock. Cover the pot and simmer them for 12 minutes, or until tender and light. Cut one in half and taste it to see if they are cooked through. Simmer longer if the inside is drySet aside. ​  ​
- +
-Have ready a pot (2 qts.) of barely simmering chicken broth - to be used later in making the stew. Do not let it boil, or the dumplings will break up. Form the dumplings with two oiled tablespoons and drop them carefully, one by one, into the simmering stock. Cover the pot and simmer them for 12 minutes, or until tender and light. Cut one in half and taste it to see if they are cooked through. Simmer longer if the inside is dryishRemove with a pierced spoon and set aside until the stew is made, then add them to the stew to reheat +
  
 Fresh sage or tarragon may be substituted for the basil. Fresh sage or tarragon may be substituted for the basil.
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     * 1 stick of butter     * 1 stick of butter
     * 2 garlic cloves, pureed     * 2 garlic cloves, pureed
-    * 8 oz. package of mushrooms, sliced ​+    * 8 oz. mushrooms, sliced ​
     * ½ cup flour     * ½ cup flour
     * ½ teaspoon of Tabasco ​     * ½ teaspoon of Tabasco ​
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 Push all the vegetables to one side of the pan and move that side of the pan off the burner, so that only the empty half is over the fire. Put the remaining butter in, and when melted add the flour. Stir constantly. As you mix it, the flour will absorb the butter and begin to froth. Cook it long enough to lose the floury taste, but be sure that it does not brown or scorch. This is the roux that will thicken the stew.  Push all the vegetables to one side of the pan and move that side of the pan off the burner, so that only the empty half is over the fire. Put the remaining butter in, and when melted add the flour. Stir constantly. As you mix it, the flour will absorb the butter and begin to froth. Cook it long enough to lose the floury taste, but be sure that it does not brown or scorch. This is the roux that will thicken the stew. 
  
-Strain the stock well through a fine sieve or cheesecloth in a colander. Slowly add the stock to the roux, constantly stirring, until it is a thickish sauce. When smooth, add the cream and the salt and pepper and add more stock if needed. ​ Keep on stirring often. Simmer on a very low fire for about 20 minutes, add the cooked chicken ​and and the dumplings and simmer 5 minutes longer. ​ Taste for seasoning.+Strain the stock well through a fine sieve or cheesecloth in a colander. Slowly add the stock to the roux, constantly stirring, until it is a thickish sauce. When smooth, add the cream and the salt and pepper and add more stock if needed. ​ Keep on stirring often. Simmer on a very low fire for about 20 minutes, add the cooked chicken and the dumplings and simmer 5 minutes longer. ​ Taste for seasoning.
  
  
  
-The chicken may be boned and cut up, or left whole, or cut into the usual eight pieces. You may want to add cooked carrots and celery (string the celery), cut into 1” chunks, and tiny spring onions, cooked. CC always put the mushrooms into a stew about 5 or so minutes before it was finished cooking, so that they remained firm. Good that way.  ​+The chicken may be boned and cut up, or left whole, or cut into the usual eight pieces. You may want to add cooked carrots and celery (string the celery), cut into 1” chunks, and tiny spring onions, cooked. CC always put the mushrooms into a stew about 5 or so minutes before it was finished cooking, so that they remained firm.    
  
  
  
-A little thyme and bay added to the roux would brighten the flavor. Fresh black pepper added at the table is also tasty. 
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-A poached chicken is a versatile bird.  It can be used for everything from sandwiches to //Poulard en Chaud-froid//​. ​  +   
  
  
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-It is better to do the poaching in chicken stock, rather than just water. ​ You will then have a //consomme double//​.  ​Cook the bird at a low simmer, ​ skimming until it stays clear. ​ Add the vegetables and herbs - your choice, ​ and salt.  Begin testing the temperature at about 45 minutes.  ​+It is better to do the poaching in chicken stock, rather than just water. ​  ​Cook the bird at a low simmer, ​ skimming until it stays clear. ​ Add the vegetables and herbs - your choice, ​ and salt.  Begin testing the temperature at about 45 minutes.  ​
  
  
-A bread and giblet stuffing may be put into the bird.  Sew or pin it shut,  and cook as above. ​  ​+A bread, onion and giblet stuffing may be put into the bird.  Sew or pin it shut,  and cook as above. ​ It will firm up in the poaching. ​
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-A chicken filled with a savory stuffing – onion, celery, parsley, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, bread, minced cooked chicken giblets and a raw egg - then poached ​in a stock,  is really delicious.  Cook the stuffing before adding the raw egg. The stuffing firms up in the simmering and becomes better than the baked version. ​ This is usually done in a //bollito misto//, or //pot au feu//. Call it a New England boiled dinner if your guests tend to xenophobia.+A chicken filled with a savory stuffing – onion, celery, parsley, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, bread, minced cooked chicken giblets and a raw egg, salt and pepper ​- then poach in a stock. ​ Cook the stuffing before adding the raw egg. The stuffing firms up in the simmering and becomes better than the baked version. ​ This is usually done in a //bollito misto//, or //pot au feu//. Call it a New England boiled dinner if your guests tend to xenophobia.
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-If the breast ​alone is cooked, take the chicken out and cut the breast from the leg section and remove to a platter, loosely covered. ​ Continue cooking the leg section as necessary. ​ With luck,  the breast and thigh will be done at the same time due to the chicken being on its back and the thighs close to the bottom of the pot.  Put the chicken on a platter, ​ turning it up to drain juices from the cavity. Let it rest, tented with foil.  ​+If the breast is cooked ​before the dark meat, take the chicken out and cut the breast from the leg section and remove to a platter, loosely covered. ​ Continue cooking the leg section as necessary. ​ With luck,  the breast and thigh will be done at the same time due to the chicken being on its back and the thighs close to the bottom of the pot.  Put the chicken on a platter, ​ turning it up to drain juices from the cavity. Let it rest, tented with foil.  ​
  
  
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 ====Chicken Creole II==== ​                                                               ====Chicken Creole II==== ​                                                              
  
-A Chicken Creole version of the //Poulet en Cocotte// is made with onion, ​ garlic, ​ peeled and seeded tomato and peeled green sweet pepper and  parsley, thyme and bayleaf. ​ Brown the veggies along with the chicken. ​+A Chicken Creole version of the //Poulet en Cocotte// is made with minced ​onion, ​ garlic, ​ peeled and seeded tomato and peeled green sweet pepper and  parsley, thyme and bayleaf. ​ Brown the veggies along with the chicken. (Except the tomato - add it before covering).
  
  
-When it has finished baking, pick out the bayleaf, puree the veggies and drippings to make a sauce. Serve with rice.+When it has finished baking, pick out the bayleaf, puree the veggies and drippings to make a sauce, unless the sauce in the pot looks good to you. Serve with rice.
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-Heat on the stove, ​ but do not boil,  and place in a 250° oven to cook for about 1 hour.  After 45 minutes check to see if the breast is done and remove it if so.  (Breast is cooked at 155°, ​ dark meat 165°) ​ When all is cooked but still hot, remove the neck and bouquet, take off the skin. Stir in some chopped parsley then arrange the chicken pieces in a serving bowl with the vegetables and strain the defatted liquid over it.  Refrigerate until jelled and scrape off any fat before serving. It looks better if it is unmolded onto a platter. ​Or it can all be cooled in the uncovered pot and popped into the refrigerator to firm it up - if you are just doing it for home folks who have to shift for themselves.+Heat on the stove, ​ but do not boil,  and place in a 250° oven to cook for about 1 hour.  After 45 minutes check to see if the breast is done and remove it if so.  (Breast is cooked at 155°, ​ dark meat 165°) ​ When all is cooked but still hot, remove the neck and bouquet ​and skin the chicken pieces. 
 + 
 + 
 +Let it cool, stir in some chopped parsley then arrange the chicken pieces in a serving bowl with the vegetables and strain the defatted liquid over it.  Refrigerate until jelled and scrape off any fat before serving. It looks better if it is unmolded onto a cold platter. ​ Serve on chilled plates.
  
  
-If it is to be a company dish,  remove the bones and cut the meat into neat pieces. ​ Strain the sauce and retrieve the vegetables to add to the bowl,  or cook some new veggies. ​ Also add some freshly chopped parsley and some pimento for color. ​  Put it all back together and let it chill. ​ It can be unmolded on a tray lined with lettuce leaves and garnished with watercress and grape tomatoes, ​ etc., for a de luxe presentation. ​  Must be cooked only one day ahead, as it tends to soften if kept too long.+If it is to be a company dish,  remove the bones and cut the meat into neat pieces. ​ Strain ​and de-fat ​the sauce and retrieve the vegetables to add to the bowl,  or cook some new veggies. ​ Also add some freshly chopped parsley and some pimento for color. ​  Put it all back together and let it chill. ​ It can be unmolded on a tray lined with lettuce leaves and garnished with watercress and grape tomatoes, ​ etc., for a de luxe presentation. ​  Must be cooked only one day ahead, as it tends to soften if kept too long.
  
  
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 Prepare the small bird by cutting out the backbone and any neck.  Use shears and cut along each side of the backbone, ​ all the way from the neck to the Pope's nose.  Take out the wishbone. ​ Spread the chicken open,  flip it to skin side up,  and mash down on the breast until the bones crack and the bird stays flat. Place butter, ​ salt,  pepper and herbs under the skin,  then roast it in a hot oven,  425° to 450°. Prepare the small bird by cutting out the backbone and any neck.  Use shears and cut along each side of the backbone, ​ all the way from the neck to the Pope's nose.  Take out the wishbone. ​ Spread the chicken open,  flip it to skin side up,  and mash down on the breast until the bones crack and the bird stays flat. Place butter, ​ salt,  pepper and herbs under the skin,  then roast it in a hot oven,  425° to 450°.
  
-It can be grilled on a wood fire reduced to coals. ​  Place the chicken on the cooler side so that it does not scorch. In either method be sure to baste often. ​  Put a cookie sheet on top of the chicken and weight it down with two bricks. This will keep it from curling. An empty iron frying pan is also a good press. Just don't overcook the chicken.+It can be grilled on a wood fire reduced to coals. ​  Place the chicken on the cooler side so that it does not scorch. In either method be sure to baste often. ​  Put a cookie sheet on top of the chicken and weight it down with two bricks. This will keep it from curling. An iron frying pan is also a good press. Just don't overcook the chicken.
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